How to Convert an Electric Motorcycle to a Mid-Drive (Central) Motor
Anyone who rides electric motorcycles knows the trade-off well: a mid-drive (“central”) motor delivers more torque and higher top speed than a hub (“pancake”) motor, but it occupies the space where the battery normally sits and generally requires lithium-battery power. Converting an electric motorcycle to a mid-drive motor is therefore a structural project, not a bolt-on accessory — and it deserves the same care you would give any structural modification.
Before You Start: Safety First
Structural modification of an electric motorcycle is nothing like swapping turn signals. Whatever method you choose, the whole vehicle must remain coordinated — frame strength, weight distribution, wheelbase, and the safety of every mounting point. Plan the layout before you cut or weld anything.
Three Ways to Convert to a Mid-Drive Motor
Method 1: CVT Transmission Conversion
The first approach uses a CVT transmission, suited to scooter-type frames such as the Ghost Fire, GTR, Battle Speed, and Fuxi families. Conversion brackets for this route resemble a small gasoline engine in layout and are sold as ready-made accessories — essentially a straight bolt-up job without much technical difficulty. This is the route most riders should take, and a suitable mid-drive electric motorcycle motor is the core of the build.
Method 2: Central-Motor Flat Fork (Swingarm)
The second approach replaces the swingarm with a flat fork designed to carry a central motor. These flat forks are widely available online. Riders with solid fabrication skills can also make one themselves — but dimensions and weld quality are critical, because after all, safety comes first.
Method 3: Full Custom Fabrication
The third approach is for advanced builders only: machining the transmission mounting yourself on a lathe or milling machine and engineering the mid-motor placement from scratch. Done well, this preserves the original proportions and wheelbase of the donor frame and produces the best-looking results — but the skill bar is high, and mistakes here are structural mistakes.
Supporting Configuration for a Converted Bike
A mid-drive conversion is only as good as the systems around it:
- Battery management: an ACS intelligent system makes efficient use of the pack — when the battery is nearly empty, engaging ACS can squeeze out another 3–5 km of range to get you home.
- Suspension: hydraulic front-fork and rear shock absorbers effectively cushion road bumps and keep the added mass of the motor under control.
- Braking: large front and rear drum brakes give flexible, progressive braking that shortens stopping distance — essential when the drivetrain is now more powerful.
Complete drivetrain components, including controllers and motors for conversion projects, are available in our conversion kit category.